Building a Functional Garage Shed for Extra Storage
Last Updated: May 2024
Many of us use a shared space, such as a garage, as our shop. Inevitably, you’ll need to store some “normal” garage items like outdoor equipment or kid’s toys in the shared space, but you don’t want the storage to get in the way of your shop or your shop to get in the way of the storage. Today, we will solve that problem by building a Garage Shed facing the garage door.
Check out the build plans if you want to build this yourself!
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Tools Used
Counter-sink drill bit
Impact Driver (recommended)
Dado Stack for table saw (optional)
Brad Nailer (optional)
Glue Dispenser (optional, but helpful)
* I don’t recommend the one I used at the time but I linked to the one I recommend now.
Materials
2x4s
3/4” Plywood
1” Brad nails (optional)
1 - Cut 2x4s to Length
Let’s start by cutting all the 2x4s to length. While the frame does have a pretty good number of pieces, we only have to cut a handful of lengths. Set up a stop block at your miter saw and cut, starting with the longest pieces first. Cut all the pieces in one dimension before moving to the next. Sticking with one dimension at a time will help ensure that everything is consistent, even if you’re a little off on the measurement.
Don’t worry if you don’t have a miter saw. You can also make the cuts with a circular saw and speed square. If you do this, cut one piece, then use it to mark the rest.
I like to label all my pieces with blue tape and a Sharpie. This will be especially helpful when we cut the half-lap joinery in the next step.
2 - Cut Frame Half Laps
Half laps will add a ton of needed strength to the frame and make assembly easier. If you have never cut half laps before, don’t get nervous. We’ll discuss three different cutting methods, starting with the circular saw. Regardless of the method, use a scrap piece 2x4 to help mark the locations. No matter the piece or how many half-laps it receives, all cuts should go on the same side of the piece. I found it helpful to always cut on the taped side.
Circular Saw Method
Set the blade to cut less than halfway through the 2x4 thickness (short side). Cut both sides of the joint using a speed square to keep the circular saw square. Then, make several passes through the area to remove, leaving thin pieces between each cut.
Break out the thin pieces and clean up the cuts with a chisel. We can also remove material down to the half point with the chisel. Double-check the sizing with the 2x4 scrap.
Miter Saw Method
Like the circular saw method, enable the stop on your miter saw and adjust it to cut less than halfway through the 2x4. Cut each side of the joint first, then carefully make several passes, leaving thin pieces between each cut.
I didn’t notice that my miter saw didn’t cut low enough due to the blade curve and the fence. To remedy this issue, you can add some scrap to the fence to push the piece out.
As with the circular saw, clean up the cut and remove material to the half point with your chisel.
Table Saw Method
We’ll use a dado stack at the table saw. While a Dado stack will require more setup time, once you have everything dialed in, you can make all your cuts quickly and directly to the halfway line. This method also does not require cleanup with the chisel, as the others do.
Regardless of your chosen method, shop projects are an excellent opportunity to learn a new skill or improve at one. I tried to work on making my joints tight, but I was able to go together without a hammer (some joints were more successful than others).
3 - Assemble Frame Components
Now that all our joinery has been cut, assembly should be easy. Dry fit each subframe together. If needed, adjust the fit of any half-laps.
Liberally add glue to each half-lap joint and re-assemble. Tack one corner with a brad nail and check for square by measuring the diagonals. Once you make any adjustments, tack all joints with a couple of brads to keep them secure while you countersink and drive a few exterior screws into each joint as well.
4 - Cut Plywood to Size
I needed to use the floor space where the garage shed would ultimately go to cut the plywood to size in my shop. I took this opportunity to try getting better at using a circular saw without a guide since cutting these sheets on the ground would be easier than with the table saw.
Start with the largest pieces and cut all plywood components to size. If you have a chalk line, mark the dimensions at each end and snap your line. If you don’t, mark the dimension a few times, then connect the measurements with a straight edge, such as a long level.
To notch out the shelves for the 2x4 frame, grab an offcut from the 2x4 frame and use it to make relative marks. Use your jigsaw to cut the notches out. Put the plywood aside once you cut it.
5 - Assemble Frame
Starting with one side frame and the back, assemble the frame with glue and screws. Clamps will be extremely helpful to keep the frame together while predrilling and driving the screws. Once the clamps are tight, ensure the frame components are square to each other and the ground. My garage floor isn’t level, so make everything as square as possible.
Assemble the side frames to the back with several long screws from the back into the sides.
6 - Install Shelf
The shelf rests must be added before we can add the shelves themselves. Pick two shelf supports and counter-sink deeper holes in the long side to accommodate 3” exterior screws. You can also use pocket holes if you prefer.
Install two shelf supports to the side frames on each side of each shelf, with the half-lap facing up with glue and screws. Add the shelf front to each to help ensure the frame is square. If you need to make any adjustments, pull the frame into square. Install the middle shelf, resting on the front and back of the shelf. Clamps will be very helpful again here.
Slide in the plywood shelves. Secure with countersunk screws. I opted not to use glue, so I had more options to modify it later. Gravity and the frame notches should hold them in place, but the screws will help keep noise down as the shelf gets loaded up.
7 - Complete Frame
We can finally add the shelf support to the top. Countersink two shelf supports again for the middle section. Secure the supports as before, starting with the sides, then the shelf front, and finally the middle shelf support. Use glue and screws again as well.
8 - Assemble Panels
As with the shelves, I opted for more screws and no glue to keep my options open later. Start with the side bottom panels, keeping everything as square as possible. Add the side top panels as well. I used brad nails to keep the panels from falling into my face. Put screws every 9-12” directly into the frame after pre-drilling with a counter-sink bit.
Add the back bottom panel followed by the back top panel. My back frame had a slight bow, so I used extra brad nails to keep everything tight. Slide the top panel on and secure it as well.
Sand the entire shed or add some finish if you want (I did not).
Having a shed behind our garage door will significantly help us keep our outdoor activity storage entirely separate from the workshop while also giving the shop side many options for additional storage very soon.
The plywood I used isn’t the best due to the current price spikes. I have a few ideas for making the shop look better, but let me know what you would do!
